This location may be a little west of where you live, but if you love barbecue, this place is going to knock your socks off. Houston Barbecue Company serves real Post Oak Pit BBQ. That means the only fire in the pit comes from burning post-oak logs. Owners Kurt and Treca Craig know their Q. They formerly owned the Luling City Market on Richmond Avenue for more than 16 years. I went to the pit, and the smell and look of the slow cooking meat (nine hours for the beef) made my mouth water, and I couldn't wait to bite into it. I love the look of the dining room. Rustic would describe it, but it is so much more. Treca wanted wood from an old farmhouse. She went on the Internet, saw a number of old houses that were available, reviewed samples, and the end result is this gorgeous graying wood from an 1850 Nebraska barn. All the tables were handmade by Kurt, and the chairs were purchased separately, each one different. Wagon wheel chandeliers finish off the look. For the more conventional folks, there are four TV's and a full bar.
There are a few unusual twists regarding the way Houston BBQ dishes out the meat. You order at the counter, and you can get a slice or a pound or whatever you want. You pay by the weight. A little of this and a little of that works just fine. Then, they put the slices or ribs or links on butcher paper and place it right on your tray. In effect, the tray becomes the plate. If you want sides, you pay for whatever you choose. It really doesn't cost any more than conventional BBQ places; you just get to choose more of what you want. Another thing: no BBQ sauce at the counter. It's in a bottle on every table. Made fresh every day, their special sauce is a little sweet, a little tart and like nothing I've had before. If you like it, you can buy it by the bottle.
The BBQ Brisket has a rich beefy taste without that sweet overly smoked flavor you find in many restaurants. It was moist and tender. I had Chopped Beef on a bun and even the chopped beef was lean and not the least bit greasy. They also serve Chopped Smoked Turkey on a bun, and, you'll be pleased to know, these are onion buns. Smoked Chicken is terrific, filled with flavor, still moist on the inside and crisp on the outside. Ribs are lean and cooked to perfection. Thick slices of Smoked Turkey Breast are perfect for dieters. In fact, Treca told me many diners on the Atkins Diet eat there, and one told her that in 2003, she had already lost 50 pounds. (Jared at Subway-better watch out!)
As for side dishes, this is my kind of thick-cut cole slaw. It's a little sweet, a little tart with lots of shredded carrots. Potato salad has a nice flavor, and pinto beans are delicious without added BBQ sauce, or, if you like, simply add some at the table. Not many desserts, only two-individual Pecan Pies and Chocolate Chip Brownies. They are baked in house, and both are delicious. If you are having a party or a meeting, Houston BBQ caters, delivers and ships and will also provide service staff at your location, set up and serve the BBQ. Houston BBQ is located at 1127 Eldridge Parkway, north of Westheimer - 281/531-6800.
November 13, 2003 - Eating Out with Ted Powers